P.L.A.Y., Spring/Summer 2027
Presented on October 2, 2026 as part of the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, P.L.A.Y. takes Jitrois’ nocturnal universe somewhere unexpected: out into the sun, at a festival that seems to keep going long after sunrise.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Jitrois changes the hour, not the attitude. Stretch leather, the material that has become a signature of the Parisian house, steps away from the club lights and into broad daylight.
Titled P.L.A.Y., short for "Put Love All Around You", the women’s and men’s collection is conceived by Tristan Van Bruwaene and Jay Wilson under the artistic direction of founder Jean-Claude Jitrois. Stretch leather and stretch suede remain the starting point, but the mood is looser, brighter and deliberately more playful.
"It was a dream come true: leather as a second skin," Jean-Claude Jitrois says of the material that shaped the identity of the house. With P.L.A.Y., that second skin steps into the light.
From rue de Rivoli to the festival
The collection begins with one of the parties that became part of Jitrois lore. In the 2000s, Jean-Claude Jitrois hosted the Black Leather Ball at his home on rue de Rivoli. The dress code was direct: leather and black. The motto was carpe diem, at least for one night.
For SS27, that same freedom moves into daylight. The club becomes a festival, the interior opens onto the street, and leather catches the sun.
There is a more personal reference behind the concept as well. After years devoted to psychomotricity and psychodrama, a form of therapeutic role-play, Jean-Claude Jitrois asked the two designers to translate that experience into something festive and sunlit: clothes made for play.
In the world of P.L.A.Y., love appears where it is least expected: on the skin, on the dance floor, between friends or in the gaze of a stranger. "There is no chance, only encounters."
A summer filtered through Jitrois
Barcelona, Mykonos, Tomorrowland and Paris all make it onto the moodboard. The team moved between them over the summer, bringing fragments of each back to the studio.
Jay Wilson describes the result as "a freak mix of snapshots of life, put through the washing machine until it came out sublime." It is an apt image for the collection: polished glamour meeting imperfect energy, couture worn without caution, technically precise clothes designed to be lived in.
This is where the indie-sleaze influence enters the picture. Couture dresses worn with rubber boots, party silhouettes caught in the morning light, leather, colour and a soundtrack shaped by a new generation of female DJs, with Charlotte de Witte and Amelie Lens among the references.
Savoir-faire in motion
P.L.A.Y. reveals its construction most clearly when the clothes move.
A multicoloured fringed dress, conceived as a nod to Bob Mackie, turns every step into a play of colour. On a black fringed jacket, each leather strip is mounted on a silk base, giving the piece an unexpected lightness.
The embroidery pushes the house’s technical vocabulary into an almost graphic register. A rose-embroidered bolero worked in ladder openwork is paired with a matching zipped corset top, while other motifs take their cue from torn fly-posters layered across city walls. Every element is embroidered and cut by hand.
The Stéphanie theme introduces another approach to volume: leather blouses with puffed sleeves, ruffled cuffs and peplums tied with ribbons, worn with long skirts slit high on the thigh.
For evening, there are second-skin mini dresses, close to the body and made for dancing. Trousers shift between fitted capri shapes and fuller embroidered volumes. Eyelets and lacing run through both women’s and men’s pieces in stretch leather and stretch suede, alongside lace-up corsets, reversible capes and deconstructed tennis stripes.
Jitrois, for him
The menswear continues the same idea of body and freedom of movement. Chestnut stretch suede, genuine blue and black python, second-skin leather tops, very short shorts and black stretch-leather jumpsuits form a wardrobe with no interest in discretion.
A Jitrois hoodie embellished with Swarovski crystals takes the contrast between sportswear and excess into territory that feels entirely at home within the house.
Colour after midnight
Black remains at the core of the palette, as expected at Jitrois, but SS27 is brighter than usual. Petal pink, denim blue, mint green and chestnut move through the collection before red, fuchsia and yellow arrive at nightfall. The fringes bring all of those colours together.
P.L.A.Y. keeps the sensuality and precision that made Jitrois stretch leather instantly recognisable, while releasing it from an exclusively nocturnal setting. Instead of a wardrobe reserved for after dark, SS27 proposes clothes that move naturally from afternoon to sunrise, from street to festival, from control to abandon.
For P.L.A.Y., the party is more than a place. It is a state of mind. Worn in full daylight, Jitrois second-skin leather becomes an invitation to live with renewed intensity.
Discover the collection here.
About Jitrois
Founded by Jean-Claude Jitrois, Jitrois is a Parisian couture house dedicated to leather. In the mid-1990s, Jean-Claude Jitrois invented stretch leather: lambskin that follows every movement of the body like a second skin, and which has since become a signature of the house. Each piece is handmade in France and can be made to measure. Boutique: 38, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris. jitrois.com
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ART DIRECTION Jean-Claude Jitrois
CREATIVE DIRECTION Tristan Van Bruwaene Jay Wilson
STYLING Mylene Colona Emilie Griere
HAIR & MAKE-UP Natsuki Oneyama Maeva Gomes |
PHOTOGRAPHY Jordan Rossi RKN c/o Production Motun Soya Marcus Lister Olly Dundas Maxence Gautier
MODELS Tyler Maher c/o Select Models Cynthia Wu c/o Select Models Maylis Le Brun c/o IMG Models |
JITROIS KLUB Jean-Claude Jitrois Gilbert Maria Yann Patry Jay Wilson Tristan Van Bruwaene Mylene Colona Emilie Griere Sagar Sankhala Brayan Gaspard Céline Rey |
